A humble shack in the parking lot of a Fiesta Mart where the Loop 610 North frontage road meets North Shepherd Drive serves up some of the best tacos I’ve ever had in our fair city.
Taqueria Durango, which greets visitors with the warm glow of its bright yellow sign that evokes a Houston sunrise, is the everyman’s taco. And that’s not meant in a pejorative sense whatsoever. Construction workers gather here at dawn and at lunchtime, some of them eating on the beds of their trucks or the hoods of their cars or the makeshift counter designed for standing and eating quickly.
“Are you in a hurry?” the woman behind the counter said when I asked her what aguas frescas ($3 for a 24-ounce cup, with free refills) she was serving.
She had already apologized for the 10 minutes I had waited as my flour tortillas were being made from scratch, and I insisted I was in no rush.
And few places are worth those extra 10-15 minutes more than Taqueria Durango.
The bold, spicy chipotle adobo sauce that came with my bistec (steak), potato and egg, and egg and chorizo tacos was unlike anything I’ve ever tried in such a barebones setting.
So it was both a matter of self-preservation as much as it was for my own enjoyment that I ordered the fresh pineapple juice. A good barometer for the authenticity of any aguas frescas, from horchata to tamarindo, is the presence of chunks of fresh fruit (and very little, if any, added sugar.)
The refreshing juice was a pleasant escape for my taste buds, which had been ensorcelled by the adobo sauce. But the sweet and spicy dynamic greatly enhanced the soft, buttery tortillas and the fluffy scrambled eggs, hearty potatoes, savory chorizo and tender steak.
For me, Taqueria Durango serves as a reminder that some of the places which we are tempted to call “hidden gems” are often hiding in plain sight.
Taqueria Durango
Address: 2807 N. Shepherd Drive
Dining Options: Dine-in, takeout
Hours: 6 a.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Saturday
Entree prices: $2-$12
Kid-friendly: Yes
Senior discount: No
Alcohol: No
Healthy options: None
Star of the show: Bistec taco
Rating: 5 out of 5 bites
"tasty" - Google News
November 20, 2021 at 11:41PM
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Review: Taqueria Durango serves up tasty, cheap breakfast tacos - The Leader
"tasty" - Google News
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