STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — In the world of casual fast food concepts, there’s a new and formidable contender in this fiercely competitive arena — Staten Island’s very own Juicy Lucy. Owner Richie Holmes recently introduced the barbecue restaurant’s second location, a 67-seat eatery in Eltingville.
Juicy Lucy comes to the former Smashburger, a chain that lived for five years at 4318 Amboy Road. The address’ current layout subsequently reflects the prior footprint with a partially open kitchen on display behind the service counter. Booth seating is available for patrons who choose to dine in. Plus, there are a handful of high-top tables. A soft drink station is available for self-service at an all-you-can-imbibe soda fountain.
Balloons mark Juicy Lucy's grand opening (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
Among the porcine picks at this Juicy outpost are the smoke-on-sweet ribs and lacquered “Pork Candy Bites,” succulent, boneless hunks of slow-roasted hog that would make a cardiologist cringe. Equally as decadent are the sandwiches — the pulled pork-centric Porky’s Revenge, a Pastrami Club, the Chopped Brisket and the Austin Cheesesteak on a hero roll. All but the latter come on a buttery, toasted brioche bun.
Succulent ribs (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
The Brisket Poutine translates to fried cheese mozzarella curds, a pile of award-winning brisket shreds and an addictive, thin brown gravy made of rendered beef tallow ladled atop waffle fries. It is one of those “bless me, Father, for I have sinned” kinds of dishes.
The Poutine with brisket (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
But if there is anything on which Juicy Lucy can hang its chef hat it’s the Kentucky Fried Lucy Sandwich. It is an item that might put The Colonel’s, Popeye’s and Shake Shack’s fried chicken versions to shame because as it is supremely delicious and an edible invention borne of the Isle of Staaten. Without spilling any trade secrets on ingredients — credit the yumminess to about 30 different components to its coating and leave it at that — I witnessed a cooking demo by kitchen worker Tony.
The chicken sandwich features a stunning, crisp-fried coating. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
The sandwich starts with a brined, pounded out, boneless chicken thigh and progresses with house-made pickles, coleslaw and mayo on a toasted brioche. What sends the flavor over the top is a “tail” that develops in the deep fryer as the chicken transforms into a succulent, crisp cutlet. The whole shebang is a little messy to eat and I recommend slicing it in half, if not to be more gracious with the handling than to fully admire its neatly arranged insides.
Inside the chicken sandwich: juicy chicken, house-made pickles, cole slaw and mayo on a buttery brioche bun. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
A gripe on this new Juicy Lucy: one of my favorite indulgences this past year, so far, has been their burger, an 8-ounce meat patty only to be found at the Ocean Breeze joint. Although Richie Holmes being Richie Holmes can break the story gently to a humble hamburger lover on why the dish is not served in his new operation, it is most notably missing from the menu board.
Richie said the signature thing takes too long to cook to his standards, about 20 minutes, and doesn’t fit into the quick food concept he had in mind for the South Shore spot. So, with that — Dominus Vobiscum — I forgive you, Richie Holmes.
The brisket sandwich (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
The richness of mains shouldn’t detract from other good finds here. Sides can include two pieces of corn bread, brisket baked beans, coleslaw, sweet potato casserole, mac ‘n’ cheese and waffle fries.
Richie Holmes opened Juicy Lucy in Eltingville where Smashburger lived for five years. The manager is Angela Chow. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
And fans of Angela Chow, the former manager at now-closed Jade Asian Bistro, can find her as a manager here four days a week. She said it’s her first job outside of the Chinese restaurant realm and she’s quite happy with her new American barbecue gig.
From left to right: Jarett DeVito, Richie Holmes, Kerri Andersen (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)
The new Juicy Lucy is located at 4318 Amboy Rd., Eltingville; 718-317-7427; JuicyLucyBBQ.com. Delivery options such as DoorDash and Grubhub are coming in early September. Right now, the staff themselves are delivering within a four-mile radius. Hours are Tuesday through Thursday from noon until 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday from noon until 10 p.m. and Sunday from noon until 9 p.m.
The flagship Juicy Lucy can be found at 809 Father Capodanno Blvd., Ocean Breeze; 718-979-LUCY. This venue has an upcoming fundraiser on Sunday, Sept. 26 from noon to 6 p.m. for Merlins Kids with Autism. The event is $29.95 per adult and $14.95 per child for all-afternoon, unlimited food and drink. Reservations are necessary through Eventbrite.com.
Pamela Silvestri is Advance Food Editor. She can be reached at silvestri@siadvance.com.
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Juicy Lucy now has a yummy format in Eltingville. But where’s the (chopped) beef? - SILive.com
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