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Just how yummy is China’s edible beauty boom? - Vogue Business

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Japan’s Pola was slow to promote itself during its early years in China, missing out on opportunities for development. Owned by Pola Orbis, one of Japan’s four cosmetics giants, Pola was launched in 1946, earning a reputation as a pioneer of modern skincare. The brand, which has two separate research centres for cosmetics and health foods, is best known for skin-whitening pills and anti-wrinkle creams.

Pola’s slow growth in the Chinese market has left room for other foreign competitors. According to a Tmall International ranking, Australian company Swisse is the top collagen supplement brand. Since signing Chinese actress Dilraba Dilmurat as an ambassador, Swisse’s collagen drink has been the best-performing product in its category in the Tmall Double 11 Shopping Festival for three consecutive years.

Huaxi’s focus on consumable beauty

Huaxi Biology’s launch of hyaluronic acid drinking water presented a test for the beauty market in edible beauty products. The company’s research institute is collaborating with Indie Pure on a new line that includes hyaluronic acid, produced by Huaxi’s fermentation technology. Huaxi has been producing hyaluronic acid as a food additive in China since 2004 and intends to continue broadening its use in skincare, medical formulations and functional food.

Comprehensive R&D capabilities are essential for success in this sector. Chinese beauty brand Marubi launched a line of collagen beverages back in 2011, but adverse media coverage set the market back, after it was suggested that the drinks contained only a small amount of collagen. Since 2015, Australian healthcare companies and Japanese cosmetics brands have invested in edible beauty sales via e-commerce, bringing the trend slowly back to life.

New brands are playing down the benefits, being careful to gain approval from the likes of the “Cheng Fen Dang”, a group of influencers who analyse the ingredients of cosmetic products to determine effectiveness. CBNData’s 2020 New Health Consumer Trend Report shows that ingredients corresponding to skin lightening, anti-oxidation and hydration – such as nicotinamide, collagen, anthocyanins and hyaluronic acid – are most frequently included in edible beauty products.

New entrants to the market are queuing up. Simon Yu, a Chinese designer who studied in the UK and returned to China to set up beauty brand Little Ondine in 2013, is planning to launch food supplement products later this year. “When you make a brand, you always need to propose new concepts,” he says. “Whether it’s food or beauty, new ideas are generated by constantly tapping the needs of users.”

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Just how yummy is China’s edible beauty boom? - Vogue Business
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