Asparagus, that royal member of the lily family, can be sheer ambrosia if it is carefully selected and perfectly cooked. It seems, however, that selection criteria, as well as prepping and cooking methods vary greatly. There is no shortage of strong opinions when it comes to asparagus.
Plump or skinny
Connoisseurs argue about whether fat or thin stalks are preferable. Those preferring the thin spears contend that they are more tender and that they cook faster, while those seeking the plumper stalks argue that the additional pulp adds tenderness that is missing in the thinner spears.
Pencil thin or those with cigar-size waistlines, the choice is yours.
Tender from tough
As for removing the woody ends, my mother broke off the tough ends one by one, holding each spear at opposite ends and bending it gently in half until it snapped approximately at the point where the tender part begins. It was a patient, Zen-like motion. Me? I cut off the woody ends with one fell swoop of my short-bladed cleaver. A rubber band bound bunch at a time, I sever leather from luscious.
To Peel, or not
The easiest and fastest preparation method is to cook the stalks unpeeled. But that’s one view. Perfectionists, vegetable peelers firmly in hand, contends that peeling the lower half of chubby asparagus produces a stalk that is more tender, and no doubt that is true. The outer skin is removed with a vegetable peeler, from the base to as much as halfway up toward the stalk. I confess, I no longer take the time to peel, but I admire those who do.
Buying best
Choose stalks with tips that are closed and compact; partially opened or mushy tips are a sign of aging or mishandling. Choose stalks that are about the same size for even cooking. Refrigerate, unwashed, in a plastic bag and plan on using them within 3 days.
Hot, but how?
The debate heats up again over the proper cooking technique. Almost everyone agrees that the result should be tender-crisp and bright green, not limp. I prefer asparagus either quickly blanched in boiling salted water or coated with olive oil and either grilled on the barbecue or roasted until the tips are caramelized, roasting it in a 400-degree oven on a rimmed baking sheet.
Here are three recipes that showcase fresh asparagus — one roasted, one grilled, and one simmered to make a delicious soup:
Asparagus Soup with Pancetta and Fresh Tarragon
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
1/3 cup (packed) diced pancetta
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup thinly sliced yellow onions
1/4 cup thinly sliced shallots
2 garlic cloves, peeled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 cups chicken broth, plus more if needed
1 cup pieces of white country bread, crust removed
2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves
2 cups 1-inch long pieces fresh trimmed asparagus, about 1 bunch
2 cups fresh baby spinach
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Garnish: sliced fresh chives
Garnish: Crème fraiche or sour cream
PROCEDURE
1. In a 5-quart or 6-quart Dutch oven, cook pancetta with the olive oil until crispy and fully rendered on medium-high heat, about 4 minutes. Remove the pancetta from the pan with slotted spoon and set aside on paper towel lined plate. Lower heat to medium and add onions, shallots and garlic. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Once soft, about 5 minutes, add broth, bread and tarragon. Bring the mixture to a boil on high heat. Add the asparagus and spinach. Lower heat and simmer until the asparagus is tender, about 15 minutes.
2. Transfer the contents in batches to a food processor and process until pureed. Or use an immersion blender to puree. Add more broth if needed to achieve desired consistency. Season with lemon juice. Adjust the salt and pepper as necessary.
3. Ladle into bowls (shallow bowls work best to show off sour cream — it will sink in a deep bowl). Top with spoonful of sour cream or crème fraiche, crispy pancetta, and chives.
Source: Adapted from Chef-Restauranteur Geoffrey Zakarian, Food Network
Grilled Asparagus Rafts
Yield: 4 to 5 servings
INGREDIENTS
16 to 20 plump asparagus spears (about 1 pound)
Short slender bamboo skewers or long wooden toothpicks
1 tablespoon low-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons roasted Asian-style sesame oil
1 medium-sized garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, see cook’s notes
Dash of salt and freshly ground black pepper
Cook’s notes: To toast sesame seeds, place a plate next to stove. Place sesame seeds in a small skillet. Place on medium high heat. Shake handle to rotate seeds as they lightly brown; keep an eye on them. Place seeds on plate to cool. I am a big fan of toasted sesame seeds and generally use more than the recommended 1 tablespoon.
PROCEDURE
1. Preheat grill to high heat.
2. Snap off (or cut off) tough ends of asparagus. Arrange 3 to 4 asparagus spears side by side on rimmed baking sheet. Thread 3 or 4 spears on skewers or long toothpicks horizontally through spears. You can use one or two skewers or toothpicks per “raft.” Repeat procedure with remaining asparagus spears.
3. Combine soy sauce, sesame oil, and garlic; brush over asparagus rafts. Grill about 3 minutes on each side or until crisp-tender (I close lid for best results on my barbecue and once cooked, I return grilled asparagus to the same rimmed baking sheet to sit in any residual soy mixture). Sprinkle with sesame seeds, pepper, and a smidgen of coarse salt. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Source: Adapted from “How to Grill” by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $24.95)
Parmesan Roasted Asparagus
Yield: 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
2 1/2 pounds asparagus, about 30 large, tough bottom portion cut off or snapped off and discarded
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
For serving: 2 lemons cut in wedges
PROCEDURE
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. If stalks of the asparagus are thick, peel them with a swivel bladed peeler. Place in single layer on rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil. Tilt pan and roll asparagus to lightly coat with oil. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Roast 15 to 20 minutes, or until just tender, shaking pan to rotate asparagus half way through roasting. Sprinkle with Parmesan and return to oven for about 1 minute to melt cheese. Serve with lemon wedges.
Have a cooking question? Contact Cathy Thomas at cathythomascooks@gmail.com
Source: “Barefoot Contessa Family Style” by Ina Garten (Clarkson Potter, $35)
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