The view from A Fish & Friends is so dazzling, so South Bay Perfect, that you may not actually notice that they serve food.
And indeed, that may be why many of the options along the optimistically named International Boardwalk serve food as only a bit of an afterthought, or as an excuse for locals to drink more beer. Beer is what the Boardwalk is all about — beer, and sitting inside or out, looking out to see, which never grows tired. Nor, for that matter, is the endless parade of boats, locals and tourists, meandering from one end to the other, or heading into the water for a day of breezes and boisterousness.
In so many ways, this is how we are — and how we’ve always been.
A Fish & Friends used to be one of our few Basque restaurants, called A Basq Kitchen. The owner dropped me a note saying that, “After five years, we have refreshed with a new concept…and a patio upstairs which is AMAZING because it’s got a killer ocean view…” The note also admits that to get to the upstairs patio, you have to walk to the stairs, and then up to the tables. “Worth it? Time will tell…”
Well, what I’ll tell you is that on a dazzlingly bright Sunday, with clouds scudding off in the distance, I’d gladly walk a lot further to get to that view. The food may cool a bit. But the view…never gets tired. And frankly, with a Beachwood Foam Top in hand, and some fine grilled rock cod fish tacos on my tray, I got no complaints at all. Back East, they’re shivering. Out here, I’m chewing and sudsing.
And it’s worth noting that the Basque influence on the menu isn’t completely gone. Though nothing is called by its Basque name. It’s also notable that there are more beers on the menu than dishes — this may be the most minimalist seafood restaurant in the South Bay. I suspect that when the restaurant transitions to full-service the menu will get longer. Right now, it’s items that are easy to carry upstairs. Trying to haul a full-sized paella pan comes with a lot of risks — except for Thursdays, when the restaurant does Paella Night…along with the Seafood Boil on Sundays.
But right now, what the restaurant is mostly serving is a greatest hits list of fish food. Which means a fine clam chowder, with bacon, served in a bread bowl. (I’ve always thought the notion of the bread bowl a little goofy. Bread soggy with soup is not my idea of fun. But then, what do I know? It’s pretty much universal.)
There’s a shrimp cocktail because, well, there has to be; it might be a federal statute, maybe even one of the amendments. There’s fried calamari, and a very tasty rock fish ceviche, with big chunks of fish, which I like. And steamed mussels and clams — which has been a seafood mainstay for me forever.
From there, we roll into the entrees — though some are modest enough to be appetizers. Like the fish tacos, filled with grilled rock cod, pineapple salsa and a snappy serrano chili aioli. I never imagined fish tacos growing up back east; out here, I can’t imagine life without them. Ditto the shrimp & lobster roll on a buttered brioche bun, with tasty Old Bay seasoning potato chips — more great beer food. The chips also come with the tuna salad sandwich — but not with the beer-batted cod fish sandwich, which comes with spicy slaw and french fries.
There’s a seafood quesadilla, with salmon, octopus and shrimp. There’s grilled octopus with chimichurri sauce and aioli spuds. And from somewhere out in left field, there’s a burger and fries, and a fried chicken sandwich. Because, I guess on the Boardwalk, it’s what you’ve got to serve.
And on those aforementioned warm afternoons, with one of the two dozen brews in hand, or maybe one of the Spanish wines, the simplicity of the food appeals. We don’t always need, or want, to have our tastebuds challenged. Sometimes, a hot bite, a cold drink, and a flotilla of paddle boats is just right. In fact, after this Winter of Our Discontent, it’s just perfect.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.
A Fish & Friends
- Rating: 3 stars
- Address: 136 International Boardwalk, Redondo Beach
- Information: 310-376-9215; www.afishandfriends.com
- Cuisine: Seafood
- When: Lunch, Saturday and Sunday; dinner, Friday through Sunday
- Details: Beer and wine; reservations helpful
- Atmosphere: Occupying a space that used to be A Basq Kitchen, it’s a beautifully situated seafood restaurant, open to the ocean breezes, with million-dollar views of the harbor, the boats and the tourists.
- Prices: About $25 per person
- Suggested dishes: Clam Chowder ($9), Shrimp Cocktail ($12), Steamed Mussels & Clams ($16), Fried Calamari ($12), Rock Fish Ceviche ($13), Fish and Chips ($15), Shrimp & Lobster Roll ($18), Fish Tacos ($12), Tuna Sandwich ($13), Seafood Quesadilla ($16), Fish Sandwich ($13), Grilled Octopus ($15), Lobster Mac and Cheese ($14)
- Cards: MC, V
- What the stars mean: 4 (World class! Worth a trip from anywhere!), 3 (Most excellent, even exceptional. Worth a trip from anywhere in Southern California.), 2 (A good place to go for a meal. Worth a trip from anywhere in the neighborhood.) 1 (If you’re hungry, and it’s nearby, but don’t get stuck in traffic going.) 0 (Honestly, not worth writing about.)
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