Emily Galvez is co-owner of Sandos Rockin’ Deli & Provisions with her husband, Tony. The couple also owns The Local Bison downtown.
The vegan version of the Hooligan’s Hero at Sandos Rockin’ Deli & Provisions is shown.
It was one of those rare times when receiving not exactly what one had ordered wasn’t all that big a deal.
The order was for a “normal” banh mi sandwich from Sandos Rockin’ Deli & Provisions. Here, in keeping with the shop’s whimsical way with sandwich names, it is officially known as the “Teenage Lo-Banh-O-Mi,” a slightly tortured tribute to the Ramones.
Food: 3 stars ¦ Service: Order at counter ¦ Atmosphere: 3 stars
“Normal” was the word used by the young woman working the counter this particular afternoon to refer to the non-vegan preparation of this sandwich, which at Sandos includes ham, shredded carrot, pickled onions, sliced cucumber, sliced jalapeños and a “volcano aioli” on a toasted baguette.
However, when the sandwich was delivered to my table, the sheet of butcher paper in which it was wrapped had been sealed with a green sticker labeled “Vegan.”
And while the other ingredients were all recognizable, the “ham” was very noticeably not ham. It was a brownish gray and slightly spongy in texture, and the piece we tried on its own had no distinctive flavor at all.
Emily Galvez, co-owner of Sandos Rockin’ Deli, stands with executive chef Joey Guns.
But in the context of the sandwich as a whole, these vegan slices were perfectly acceptable, as the rest of the ingredients were fresh and vibrant, with the bite and heat of the jalapeños and the aioli, the cool crisp of the cucumber, the sweet and tangy onions being the dominant flavors.
“Most people who follow a vegan diet do so for ethical reasons, not so much because they don’t like the taste of meat,” said Joey Guns, head chef at Sandos who has created the deli’s meat and cheese substitutes in house. “And vegans don’t eat meat substitutes all the time. But when they do, they want to have that experience, that taste and texture they remember, and that’s what we’re trying to provide.”
Sandos Rockin’ Deli & Provisions opened a few weeks ago in the space that formerly was home to Poke Bowl Love. It’s also right next door to The Local Bison, where Guns, who has followed a vegetarian/vegan diet for a couple of decades, has again taken over as head chef, where he has reworked that restaurant’s menu so that most items can be converted to vegan options.
Both restaurants are co-owned by Tony and Emily Galvez, who also have been vegans for about six years.
A Rockaway Beef sandwich features roast beef, cheddar cheese, a citrus-serrano slaw, pickled red onion horseradish aioli and barbecue sauce.
“Right after we opened the Local Bison, I said to Joey we should open up a vegan deli,” Emily Galvez said. “I had always loved this spot, and when the previous owners let it be known they weren’t going to renew their lease, it seemed like the perfect time to do this.”
The menu at Sandos features eight signature sandwiches, available in vegan or omnivore versions; one can also select the “Personality Crisis,” which is a build-your-own sandwich. This starts at $11. All the signature sandwiches, with one exception, are $12.
The exception is the deli’s best-seller, the Hooligans Hero ($14), which was something of a starting point in Guns’ plans for the menu.
“I grew up on the East Coast,” he said, “and I remember as a kid going into local delis and sandwich shops, and the smell of those places, the whole atmosphere about it, is something that has stayed with me.”
Sandos Rockin’ Deli occupies the space that formerly housed Poke Bowl Love.
The Hooligans Hero is Guns’ homage to the sort of Italian sub sandwiches of his youth. We tried the omnivore preparation, which includes wafer-thin slices of pastrami, ham and salami, with provolone cheese, a pesto aioli, a hot-pepper relish, lettuce, tomato, a red wine vinaigrette and a dash of Italian seasoning on a toasted baguette. Again, the protein components served more as accents, as the hot pepper relish — though judiciously applied — gave the sandwich much of its character, while the vinaigrette made it a challenge to consume neatly.
“We put that hot pepper relish on just about everything,” Galvez said, laughing.
We also sampled the vegan version of the Reuby Soho, with vegan pastrami and smoked Gouda “cheese,” pickled cabbage and Thousand Island-style dressing on marbled rye. Again, it was the tang of the dressing and the surprising sweet, delicate flavor of the pickled cabbage that created the sensation of a traditional Reuben sandwich, with the other ingredients there more for the textural sensation of there being meat and cheese in the mix.
Vegan pastrami and smoked Gouda vegan cheese are part of the Reuby Soho at Sandos Rockin’ Deli.
The vegan proteins and cheeses are made from seitan, which itself is made of wheat gluten.
“You can flavor it any way you want, and I did a lot of research into flavor profiles to get the results I wanted,” Guns said.
All sandwiches come with kettle-style potato chips, either plain or with a house-made salt-and-vinegar seasoning that is lightly, but effectively, applied. Galvez said one could request a side from the deli’s refrigerated case, such as hummus, corn salad or crab salad, for an additional charge.
For the early morning crowd, they serve several breakfast sandwiches, such as the McSando, a vegan variation of the English muffin, egg and cheese sandwich made famous elsewhere.
Sandos Rockin’ Deli head chef Joey Guns cuts a Hooligan’s Hero.
Canned and bottled sodas and water are the available libations, although Galvez said the deli plans to sell beer and wine in the near future.
The vegan meat and cheese creations are also available by the pound. The deli also offers a range of vegan baked goods, some of which are available as gluten-free, along with some take-and-bake meal items, such as pot pies, baked ziti and other dishes.
“We have some people who drive here from Arkansas, Kansas and Missouri, because there really is nothing like this in the region,” Galvez said. “And we’ve had people who have come in, wanting to see what a vegan sandwich is like, and when they come back, they order the vegan version.”
The front doors of Sandos Rockin’ Deli & Provisions are shown.
“And we have some customers who come here often and order the same thing every time,” Guns added. “We see them coming to the door, and we start making what we know they’re going to order.”
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Gallery: Tulsa World's best new restaurants of 2021
No. 10: Saffron
3313 E. 32nd St.
Chef Shadi Afshari offers authentic Mediterranean dishes, from such familiar items as lamb chops, to more exotic dishes such as zereshk polo, a saffron-flavored braised chicken over barberry rice; and fesenjoon, or walnut stew, a thick, almost chocolate brown, and surprisingly fruity broth, stocked with pureed walnuts and pomegranate seed, and pieces of white-meat chicken. Those making the first foray in this cuisine might consider the Mediterranean Mazzeh, a selection of appetizers, or the kabob combo platter.
Read the Jan. 20 review: Saffron brings Mediterranean to midtown
No. 9: Tacos x Mezcal
39 E. 18th St.
These are not your abuela’s tacos. Chef Sebastian Renner elevates Mexico’s humblest street food into high-level cuisine, from guacamole flavored with paddlefish roe or toasted crickets to compact tacos that pack an inordinate amount of flavor. We particularly enjoyed the taco de camarón — essentially a roasted Anaheim chili stuffed with shrimp, and wrapped in well-cooked bacon — and the taco de pescado swordfish coated in a tempura-like batter and fried, with cabbage, carrot, guacamole and a chipotle aioli.
Read the May 19 review: Tacos x Mezcal gives street food a gourmet twist
No. 8: Wildflower Cafe
1306 E. 11th St.
When a restaurant makes a grilled cheese sandwich using house-made pimento cheese, then actually griddles the cheese to create a crisp, caramelized layer over the rest of the creamy, tangy mixture, one can be sure this place takes the concept of comfort food seriously. Chef and owner Heather Linville does just that at Wildflower Cafe, making food that is simple, real, fresh and well-made. Try the Snickerdoodle waffle with house-made cinnamon syrup or the biscuits and gravy for breakfast, or sample one of the regular lunch specials, such as the full Thanksgiving dinner available every Thursday. Pictured: Seven-layer dip gets some vertical enhancement at the Wildflower Cafe.
Read the June 2 review: Wildflower Cafe brings fresh attitude to classic diner fare
No. 7: Madres
6823 S. Yale Ave.
Chef Sergio Vilar uses some 20 ingredients and endless hours to make the mole sauce used on several of the dishes at Madre’s — when he says, “You can taste generations in that sauce,” it is not hyperbole. The menu includes such rarely seen dishes as cochinita pibil, a braised pork specialty from the Yucatan, and pork belly chicharrones, as well as more familiar items such as enchiladas and tacos that benefit from Vilar’s unique salsas and sauces. Pictured: brisket enchiladas
Read the June 16 review: Madre's offers high-quality modern Mexican cuisine
No. 5: Restaurant Basque
114 N. Boston Ave.
The latest concept from restaurateur Amelia Eesley, overseen by chef Andrew Donovan, features foods from the Basque region, an area that straddles the Spanish-French border, and which draws its cuisine equally from the land and sea. The small plates encourage sharing, although there might be some dishes one will want to keep to oneself, such as the salt-baked petrale sole, the charred Spanish octopus, the Basque-style snails, tender to the point of creaminess, in a lively, potent sauce of bacon and choricero peppers. Pictured: rare roasted yellowfin tuna with cucumber salad, olive tapenade, piquillo pepper puree and parsley oil
Read the July 14 review: Restaurant Basque offers unique flavors of the Basque Country
No. 4: Oakhart Barbecue
1644 E. Third St.
Co-owners Brian Hodges and Chris Emmons wanted to bring the sort of Central Texas barbecue made famous by such pitmasters as Aaron Franklin — I’ve never been to Franklin Barbecue in Austin, Texas, but if it is producing the sort of barbecue that Oakhart does, I can understand why people wait in line for hours. The ribs, brisket and house-made sausage are among the standout entrees, but sides such as cheesy grits more than hold their own.
Read the Dec. 22 review: Oakhart Barbecue serves up superb smoked meats
No. 3: La Tertulia
311 E. Second St.
James Beard Award-winning chef Kevin Nashan pays homage to his family history with this restaurant that serves up contemporary takes on the New Mexican cuisine that drew travelers to his grandparents’ Santa Fe restaurant. The menu is not extensive, but it is varied; newcomers might wish to start with the deluxe combination dinner, which gives one a fairly comprehensive sampling of what La Tertulia can do, with a taco, a rolled blue-corn enchilada, a tamale, a chili relleno and a good portion of carne adovada, which is chunks of pork shoulder simmered in a rich and spicy red chili sauce, rice, pinto beans and pozole, or hominy. Pictured: tostadas, grilled trout, sangria, flan and the Deluxe Combination (clockwise from left) at La Tertulia
Read the March 25 review: La Tertulia captures the taste, atmosphere of New Mexico
No. 2: Little Venice
208 N. Main St., Sand Springs
Owners Candi and Walter Munaretto have brought the flavors of Northern Italy to this west Tulsa suburb, serving superb food in a comfortable yet classy setting. Menus change weekly, depending on what ingredients are fresh and available. Saltimbocca, a classic dish of sauteed veal topped with sage and prosciutto, is a standout dish. Even something as seemingly simple as Pappardelle di Fungi, or egg noodles with wild mushrooms, has an extraordinary depth of flavor. Pictured: Bresaloa, an air-dried beef, is served with Italian cheese and arugula during a Sunday wine dinner at Little Venice in Sand Springs.
Read the Jan. 6 review: Little Venice in Sand Springs exceeds expectations
No. 1: Rustic Chophouse
210 S. Main St., Broken Arrow
This newcomer to the Rose District is a gem. Its tomahawk pork chop was easily the best example of this hard-to-master cut I’ve ever had — perfectly tender and succulent from first bite to last. Steaks are of an equally high caliber, as are such items as the smoked duck appetizer and the creamy leek and potato soup, which is good enough to warrant a few return trips. Pictured: RC house strip steak
Read the March 17 review: Broken Arrow's Rustic Chophouse offers superb food in intimate setting
Honorable mentions
Radish, 1730 S. Boston Ave.: “Midwesterranean” food that brings some Okie flair to Mediterranean cuisine. Superb roast chicken, pita sandwiches and mezze treats. Pictured: The Mediterranean Cobb Salad can be topped with roasted chicken, falafel or gyro meat.
918 Maples Cafe & Catering, 8151 E. 21st St.: Excellent birria tacos headline a wide-ranging menu at this small restaurant.
Cherry Street Kitchen, 111 W. Fifth St.: Relocated from its original 15th Street location, the new Cherry Street Kitchen offers an expanded menu as well as full bar service.
Day Break Cafe, 8178 S. Lewis Ave.: Fans of the old First Watch will find most of their favorites, as well as some new twists, at this breakfast-and-lunch restaurant.
Brick Bros. Pizza, 2 W. Dawes Ave., Bixby: Quality ingredients, unique combinations and a brick oven make for such excellent pizza, well worth the trip south.
Inheritance Juicery, 108 S. Detroit Ave.: Healthy libations are the star here, but the lunch menu is full of vegan-forward items.
Calaca Fresh Mexican, 6902 S. Lewis Ave.; 3202 S. Sheridan Road: California-style Mexican food — the rice and beans are good enough to order by themselves.
Gambill’s Wine & Coffee, 1102 S. Lewis Ave.: Spanish-style tapas and coffee preparations, as well as local, national and international wines.
Curds & Whey, 1124 S. Lewis Ave.: Chef Faith Walker describes what she does as “sophisticated comfort food,” with such items as the Very Berry Salad and the Cali Girl ($13) with fresh avocado, candied bacon and a zesty ranch; topping great fries.
Salt & Vinegar, 1124 S. Lewis Ave.: Few places are recommended for their Brussels sprouts, but few places make them the way Salt & Vinegar does, frying and seasoning them into a sweet and tangy treat. The rest of the menu’s pretty good as well.
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