It was one of those rare times when receiving not exactly what one had ordered wasn’t all that big a deal.
The order was for a “normal” banh mi sandwich from Sandos Rockin’ Deli & Provisions. Here, in keeping with the shop’s whimsical way with sandwich names, it is officially known as the “Teenage Lo-Banh-O-Mi,” a slightly tortured tribute to the Ramones.
Food: 3 stars ¦ Service: Order at counter ¦ Atmosphere: 3 stars
“Normal” was the word used by the young woman working the counter this particular afternoon to refer to the non-vegan preparation of this sandwich, which at Sandos includes ham, shredded carrot, pickled onions, sliced cucumber, sliced jalapeños and a “volcano aioli” on a toasted baguette.
However, when the sandwich was delivered to my table, the sheet of butcher paper in which it was wrapped had been sealed with a green sticker labeled “Vegan.”
And while the other ingredients were all recognizable, the “ham” was very noticeably not ham. It was a brownish gray and slightly spongy in texture, and the piece we tried on its own had no distinctive flavor at all.
But in the context of the sandwich as a whole, these vegan slices were perfectly acceptable, as the rest of the ingredients were fresh and vibrant, with the bite and heat of the jalapeños and the aioli, the cool crisp of the cucumber, the sweet and tangy onions being the dominant flavors.
“Most people who follow a vegan diet do so for ethical reasons, not so much because they don’t like the taste of meat,” said Joey Guns, head chef at Sandos who has created the deli’s meat and cheese substitutes in house. “And vegans don’t eat meat substitutes all the time. But when they do, they want to have that experience, that taste and texture they remember, and that’s what we’re trying to provide.”
Sandos Rockin’ Deli & Provisions opened a few weeks ago in the space that formerly was home to Poke Bowl Love. It’s also right next door to The Local Bison, where Guns, who has followed a vegetarian/vegan diet for a couple of decades, has again taken over as head chef, where he has reworked that restaurant’s menu so that most items can be converted to vegan options.
Both restaurants are co-owned by Tony and Emily Galvez, who also have been vegans for about six years.
“Right after we opened the Local Bison, I said to Joey we should open up a vegan deli,” Emily Galvez said. “I had always loved this spot, and when the previous owners let it be known they weren’t going to renew their lease, it seemed like the perfect time to do this.”
The menu at Sandos features eight signature sandwiches, available in vegan or omnivore versions; one can also select the “Personality Crisis,” which is a build-your-own sandwich. This starts at $11. All the signature sandwiches, with one exception, are $12.
The exception is the deli’s best-seller, the Hooligans Hero ($14), which was something of a starting point in Guns’ plans for the menu.
“I grew up on the East Coast,” he said, “and I remember as a kid going into local delis and sandwich shops, and the smell of those places, the whole atmosphere about it, is something that has stayed with me.”
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The Hooligans Hero is Guns’ homage to the sort of Italian sub sandwiches of his youth. We tried the omnivore preparation, which includes wafer-thin slices of pastrami, ham and salami, with provolone cheese, a pesto aioli, a hot-pepper relish, lettuce, tomato, a red wine vinaigrette and a dash of Italian seasoning on a toasted baguette. Again, the protein components served more as accents, as the hot pepper relish — though judiciously applied — gave the sandwich much of its character, while the vinaigrette made it a challenge to consume neatly.
“We put that hot pepper relish on just about everything,” Galvez said, laughing.
We also sampled the vegan version of the Reuby Soho, with vegan pastrami and smoked Gouda “cheese,” pickled cabbage and Thousand Island-style dressing on marbled rye. Again, it was the tang of the dressing and the surprising sweet, delicate flavor of the pickled cabbage that created the sensation of a traditional Reuben sandwich, with the other ingredients there more for the textural sensation of there being meat and cheese in the mix.
The vegan proteins and cheeses are made from seitan, which itself is made of wheat gluten.
“You can flavor it any way you want, and I did a lot of research into flavor profiles to get the results I wanted,” Guns said.
All sandwiches come with kettle-style potato chips, either plain or with a house-made salt-and-vinegar seasoning that is lightly, but effectively, applied. Galvez said one could request a side from the deli’s refrigerated case, such as hummus, corn salad or crab salad, for an additional charge.
For the early morning crowd, they serve several breakfast sandwiches, such as the McSando, a vegan variation of the English muffin, egg and cheese sandwich made famous elsewhere.
Canned and bottled sodas and water are the available libations, although Galvez said the deli plans to sell beer and wine in the near future.
The vegan meat and cheese creations are also available by the pound. The deli also offers a range of vegan baked goods, some of which are available as gluten-free, along with some take-and-bake meal items, such as pot pies, baked ziti and other dishes.
“We have some people who drive here from Arkansas, Kansas and Missouri, because there really is nothing like this in the region,” Galvez said. “And we’ve had people who have come in, wanting to see what a vegan sandwich is like, and when they come back, they order the vegan version.”
“And we have some customers who come here often and order the same thing every time,” Guns added. “We see them coming to the door, and we start making what we know they’re going to order.”
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