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Recipes: It’s plum and plumcot season — here are 3 tasty dishes to make with them - Santa Cruz Sentinel

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Red, purple, black or green. The visual reverie starts in the produce section, where plums and plumcots display their eye-popping array of skin colors, some with solid hues and others  generously speckled with tiny yellow dots.

Their juicy flesh is smooth textured like deep-pile velvet, imbued with flowery fragrance and a sweet and irresistible tartness. They are delicious eaten out of hand or baked into desserts. Pies and tarts, cakes and custards. Jams.

Salads welcome plums, too, especially grain-based concoctions, or couscous, those tiny pellets of semolina pasta hydrated with boiling water or broth. Green salads embrace them as well for their perky flavor, especially when sweet-salty candied nuts are added to the mix.

Look for plump plums or plumcots (delectable apricot-plum hybrids, sometimes labeled pluots) that are relatively firm yet give ever-so-slightly to gentle pressure. If the fruit is too soft, it can be mushy. Avoid those with shriveling or soft spots. Store them unwashed, loose in the refrigerator’s crisper drawer for up to 6 days. Wash in cold water just before use.

Many varieties are semi freestone, meaning they can be cut in half from top to bottom following the suture (lengthwise seam). Twist halves in opposite directions and fruit will break in half. Pits cling more stubbornly in some varieties. Some release pits only when wrenched out with a melon-balling device. In recipes that call for the fruit to be sliced or cut into pieces, I usually use a sharp small knife and cut around the pit, abandoning the idea of twisting them to produce halves.

Plums are generally available from May through October. Plumcots are most often available from May through August.

Plum or plumcot Bleeding Heart “Pies” are made with plum filling that is baked separately from the heart-shaped crust that adorns each cup. (Photo by Nick Koon)

Warm Plum-Plumcot Bleeding Heart ‘Pies’

These baked plums and plumcots are vibrantly flavored and delectably juicy. This simple presentation showcases small “pies” baked without bottom crusts. The fruit and heart-shaped top crusts bake separately. Once the filling is baked, each one is topped with a sugared crust and allowed to sit about twenty minutes before serving accompanied with sweetened whipped cream. To save time, store-bought refrigerated crust can be substituted for the from-scratch dough.

Yield:  8 servings

INGREDIENTS

Easy food-processor crust:

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour, plus flour for dusting work surface

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 cup (1 stick) cold butter, cut into 8 pieces

1/4 cup ice water (without the ice)

Filling:

3/4 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon for garnish, divided use

2 tablespoons instant tapioca

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

3 pounds plums or plumcots, pitted, cut in 3/8-inch wedges

Wash: about 1 tablespoon cream or 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water

For serving: Sweetened whipped cream

PROCEDURE

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. In food processor fitted with metal blade, pulse flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar 2 or 3 times. Add cold butter pieces and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. With motor running add ice water through feed tube, processing just until mixture just barely comes together. Pat into disk shape; place in plastic bag and refrigerate.

3. Whisk 3/4 cup sugar with tapioca, cornstarch, cinnamon and ginger in large bowl. Add plums or plumcots; toss. Arrange 8 (3/4-cup to 1-cup) soufflé cups or ramekins on rimmed baking sheet. Divide plum mixture between cups, filling each even with top.

4. Lightly flour clean, dry work surface, as well as a rolling pin. Place dough in center and roll to 1/4-inch thickness. Use small sharp knife to cut out 8 hearts large enough to sit atop filling without touching sides of soufflé cup or ramekin (or if preferred use a heart-shaped cutter). Place hearts in single layer on parchment paper lined baking sheet; dip pastry brush in wash (either cream or egg mixture) and brush lightly on tops of hearts. Bake in preheated oven until cooked through and nicely browned, about 13 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar; set aside. Increase oven temperature to 450 degrees.

5. Wipe rims of cups or ramekins with clean cloth. Still on the rimmed baking sheet, place in oven. Bake 25 minutes in 450-degree oven, or until plums are soft. Remove from oven. If tops look dry, carefully stir hot mixture to bring some juicy portion to top. Place a baked crust heart on top of each; press down gently to surround edges of heart with juice. Allow to cool at least 20 minutes. Serve warm with cold sweetened whipped cream.

Source: “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce” by Cathy Thomas (Wiley, $29.99)

Couscous with Plumcots (or Plums) and Mint is a salad that can stand on its own or be a side dish for grilled pork or lamb. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)

Couscous with Plumcots (or Plums) and Mint

This salad is delicious on its own or as a side dish with grilled pork or lamb. The recipe yields about 12 servings, making it perfect for a potluck or party. If you want a smaller amount, reduce the ingredients by half.

Yield: about 13 cups, amounts can be halved if desired

INGREDIENTS

4 1/2 cups water

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 teaspoons salt

2 (10-ounce) packages couscous (3 1/3 cups uncooked)

1/2 cup dried currants or golden raisins

1/2 cup chopped dried apricots

Dressing:

4 small shallots, or 2 large shallots, minced (about 4 tablespoons)

1/2 cup rice vinegar

1/3 cup honey

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

Garlic salt, to taste

1 bunch green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced, including half of dark green stalks

Lemon juice to taste (juice of 1 to 2 lemons)

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 cup shelled pistachios (salted or unsalted)

4 pitted plumcots or red-fleshed plums, cut roughly into 1/2-inch pieces

Garnish: chopped fresh mint and sprigs of fresh mint

PROCEDURE

1. In large saucepan combine water, oil, cumin, and salt; bring to boil on high heat. Remove from heat and stir in couscous. Cover and let stand 5 minutes. Add raisins and apricots. Fluff with fork.

2. Prepare the dressing. Combine shallots, vinegar, honey and olive oil; stir vigorously to blend. Stir in mint and garlic salt. Toss dressing with couscous. Add green onions and toss. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding lemon juice and pepper, and additional salt as needed. (Amount of lemon juice will vary depending on tartness of plumcots or plums).

3. Add nuts and plumcots (or plums); toss. Garnish servings with chopped fresh mint, and if desired, a nice sprig of mint.

Source: “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce” by Cathy Thomas (Wiley, $29.99)

Zabaglione, an Italian custard sauce made with sweet wine, can be spooned on fresh plums and figs. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)

Plums and Figs with Zabaglione

Zabaglione, the boozy Italian custard sauce, can showcase a variety of sweet wines, but Marsala is the traditional choice. It is delicious spooned over fresh summer fruit. Here it is a topping for fresh plums or plumcots along with fresh figs. If you like, substitute peaches or pitted cherries for the figs. Accompany with crisp cookies. Or, my favorite variation, augment this dish with chocolate ice cream; place the ice cream at the bottom of the bowls, top with fruit and then drizzle with zabaglione.

Yield: 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

5 large or 6 small plums or plumcots (or some of each), pitted, cut into wedges

6 fresh figs, stems trimmed, cut into lengthwise quarters

Optional: 6 scoops of chocolate ice cream

Zabaglione:

6 large egg yolks

1/2 cup granulated sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

1/2 cup sweet wine, such as Marsala, Moscato or Vin Santo

Optional garnish: sprigs of fresh mint

Optional for serving: crisp cookies

PROCEDURE

1. Cut fruit and set aside. Set aside 6 shallow bowls. If adding ice cream, form 6 “ball-like” scoops of chocolate ice cream and place in freezer on a small baking sheet.

2. For zabaglione: Beat egg yolks in a heatproof bowl until well combined. Add sugar and salt, beating until well combined. Pour wine into mixture and whisk until sugar is dissolved, about 30 seconds.

3. Heat mixture over a saucepan of barely simmering water, whisking vigorously to incorporate air into mixture. Water should not touch the bottom of the bowl that contains the yolk mixture. Whisk until custard is warm and tripled in volume and dragging the whisk across it leaves a ribbon for a second or two on the surface, about 9 minutes. Remove from heat.

4. If using ice cream, place a scoop in each of 6 shallow bowls. Place plums and figs in bowls (without ice cream if desired). Immediately spoon zabaglione over fruit (and ice cream if using) and garnish with mint if desired. Pass a plate of crisp cookies.

Source: Adapted from “Food and Wine Annual Cookbook 2019” (Food and Wine Books, $34.99)

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