Where to: Dumpling Daughter in Brookline’s Coolidge Corner.
Why: For a delicious reminder that some restaurants continue to thrive, despite COVID-19 chaos. Nadia Liu Spellman — who runs other Daughters in Wellesley and Kendall Square — optimistically went ahead with the Brookline location despite the pandemic, though this branch sticks to carryout for the time being. You’ll find an array of Asian noodles, dumplings, buns, rice bowls, and roll-ups, with a slightly larger menu than the other locations.
The back story: Spellman comes from Boston restaurant royalty: Her parents are Sally Ling and Edward Nan Liu, who ran Sally Ling’s on the Boston waterfront and later at the Hyatt Regency on Cambridge’s Memorial Drive. Her family helped to bring higher-end Chinese food to Boston, and Spellman is carrying on their tradition.
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But why Brookline?
“I love how it’s young families, close to the city, and also has college students,” Spellman says. “And even though I grew up in Weston, my mom has been spoiling us with Party Favors birthday cakes since age one. Brookline was the first place my mom lived when she came to Boston. It feels comfortable.”
What to eat: This is one of the best takeout meals I’ve had in months. “Luxe” Crab Rangoon ($8) is made with real crabmeat instead of creamy goo. Taiwanese braised pork belly buns ($9) have plenty of sweet and savory meat offset by shards of cucumber in a springy, light bun. Sichuan dumplings ($6) are light, too, in a tangy chili oil — I just wish there were more of them per order. Dan-dan noodles ($9) are topped with minced pork, bok choy, and mustard greens: a filling portion but not bottomless, and mercifully saved from their common fate of oil puddles. But the best dish is the egg roll-up, an only-in-Brookline signature: Imagine a scallion pancake burrito tightly rolled with greens, cilantro, fried egg, and a generous slather of spicy sriracha mayo. It’s the ideal hand-held snack, and Spellman designed it for parents on the move.
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“We thought this was a nice option for the moms — you can get some greens in on the go,” she says. (Spellman has one child, with another on the way.)
Also unique to the Brookline menu: spicy chili lo mein ($12), a pepper-spiked version of their Weston bestseller.
“Why not jazz it up a little bit?” she asks. “The demographic here is a little wider with the college kids, and we thought, ‘Let’s have some fun with it.’”
What to drink: Bubble tea, soda, water, et cetera. It’s takeout-only for now, so you’re your own bartender.
The takeaway: A bright spot in a bleak restaurant landscape, with dishes you’ll return to again and again, even if it’s just in front of the television.
Dumpling Daughter, 1309 Beacon St., Brookline, 617-383-5282, www.dumplingdaughter.com
Kara Baskin can be reached at kara.baskin@globe.com. Follow her on Twitter @kcbaskin.
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August 20, 2020 at 05:48AM
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Dumpling Daughter gets a tasty Brookline sibling - The Boston Globe
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