As the culinary intersections of Manhattan Beach go, Rosecrans and Highland doesn’t have the buzz and the snap of Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue, about a mile to the south. But it sure does have some fine food — including a quirky new destination eatery that offers just a single two-person table on the street in front.
Mia’s Kitchen (312 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310-546-1044, www.miaskitchen.info) describes itself as “A Caribbean Restaurant.” But that one table seems to be generally ignored by the legions of fans of the cooking of Lisa Salinas, who specializes in the foods of Trinidad & Tobago, using the recipes of her mother Euphemia, who was known as “Mia.”
As Lisa tells us on the restaurant’s website: “She taught me and my siblings the recipes she perfected from a young age on the island when she ran a successful food cantina. Now I am sharing those dishes with the Manhattan Beach residents and all who travel to try it. You will not be disappointed!”
And indeed, you will not. Meander into this closet-sized restaurant to pick up your order — and you’ll be pleasantly amazed by the home-kitchen look of the well-worn pots and pans and grills, on which the notably young, cheerful staff creates some tasty miracles. There’s a selection of “Hearty Grab & Go Meals” — dhalpuri roti flatbread turned into chicken roti (“wrapped to conveniently take away”), “savory” oxtails in a “rich and thick” gravy, chicken “pelau” rice. They’re all so good, so satisfying, so…down-home.
There are “Lighter To-Go Snacks” of “fry bake & salt fish,” along with a flatbread sandwich called a “double,” filled with curried chickpeas; a “fun Trini-style rice fish” of tossed veggies; yellow split-pea fritter with curry powder called “pholourie.”
There are bowls of stewed chicken, stewed beef and a combo of both. There’s a salad called “chow,” and a “macaroni pie” for the kids, which isn’t just for kids. On weekends, there’s goat curry roti and fry-bake saltfish. There’s shandy and ginger beer to wash it down. Peardrax too.
It comes as a shock to find Manhattan Beach outside the door. But then, the presence of a sushi bar next door is a quick reminder that this is Southern California, no matter how strong the Scotch Bonnet peppers. Fansea Sushi (302 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 424-398-0083, www.fanseasushi.com) sits in the space that, in memory, has been home to Kina Sushi, Katsu, Akatora and Waca Sushi — must be something in the water.
Fansea stretches from Mia’s to the corner of Highland, offering plenty of outdoor tables for those who can overcome the desire to sit at the sushi bar, watching in wonder as the chefs do seemingly impossible tricks with fish, rice and seaweed. I’m still having trouble getting used to not seeing the bar, but so it goes.
The menu is recognizable, with nice bonuses like a Tuesday Hand Roll special at $4 a pop for eight of the rolls, and a Thursday half-off special. The specialty rolls have names like “Beach Boy,” “Sexy,” “Sun Tan,” Sunkissed” and “Refreshing.” There’s a roll called “New York, New York,” made with shrimp tempura, crabmeat…and seared filet mignon. Surf and turf — how…”fansea.”
A couple of blocks to the north, FISHBAR Manhattan Beach (3801 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310-796-0200, www.fishbarmb.com) spreads for many tables with the cozy heating lamp, exotic cocktails — and seafood dishes that make this one of the best fish houses in the South Bay. But for me, most of all, there’s the Fishbar Bloody Mary. It is not so much a bloody Mary, as it is a meal-in-a-glass. It’s a very good bloody Mary, made with Absolut Peppar and Absolut Citron — a pair of very enjoyable spirits (for those who find spirits enjoyable). I suspect there’s some pepper in the mix, maybe a dash of celery salt, perhaps some Worcestershire. But those ingredients pale compared to the…stuff sticking out of the glass.
There’s a grilled jumbo shrimp…an entire strip of very crispy applewood smoked bacon…and a pickled white asparagus spear. The shrimp is cool — and the first thing to be eaten. The bacon is moist, but still crisp — and who doesn’t love bacon? And the asparagus is, know you, asparagus. Tasty, but still asparagus. I suppose I should be grateful that it’s asparagus. It could just as well be pickled okra or Brussels sprouts. (Which are not bad, either…)
It goes very well with a good, thick cup of the house New England clam chowder on the side. I like the chipotle shrimp quesadilla too — a fine creation, though possibly so filling it will keep you from ordering much more than the steamed clams, the mussels in marinara sauce, and the mussels in garlic broth.
And lest I forget, at the southwest corner sits Pancho’s (3615 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310-545-6670, www.panchosrestaurant.com), spreading from Highland to Rosecrans, a land of oversized margies, and even more oversized plates of chips heavy with cheese and salsa, rice and beans, enchiladas and tamales.
It’s at the opposite end of the culinary world from the sushi rolls at Fansea. But both satisfy. Taken together, they define who we are – and they both taste great as the fog comes rolling in.
Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email mreats@aol.com.
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